Any Computer Issue

Friday, June 27, 2008

Connecting PC to the amp via DAC

Question) Has anyone tried connecting their amps to their computer? How good does the mp3 files sound off your amps? If someone wants to play mainly mp3 files off the pc, do they need to buy a special sound card (models?) Which amp would be a good choice?

Reply 1) For good sound, try lower end M Audio cards, supposed to be very good.

Reply 2) Quite agree. Best sound is achieved when you match your amp to your speakers and get a pure digital to analogue conversion from your pc. Pc end will sound increasingly better if you:
3)choose decent software to play the files and high(er) bitrates, 320 mp3 to lossless. Softwarewise: for win XP choose either winamp or foobar plus asio4all plugin. For Win vista and Macintosh choose any program you like- no difference to the sound!
2)if you choose a good internal soundcard preferably from a manufacturer with professional background (No gamecards with a plethora of add-ons) M-audio for example.
1) Best is to get an external dac and connect the pc/mac to them via usb/spdif/optical digital (or just use wifi for longer distance between pc and dac/cd-player).
I use a midi device (dac included) for my digital to analogue conversion: the tascam/teac us-144. Other options Edirol ua-25, Edirol FA66...price: about 150 pounds.
Reply 3) My first PC setup was a Creative card, and a Nad 310 through JPW mini monitors, and it was fantastic!
But an ¨m-audio audiophile 2496 for £50 is a major improvement on ANY consumer Creative card for stereo, and further improvements can be made with DACs and better speakers.
If you listen at a computer desk I'd be tempted to go for monitors though. Maybe even active, losing the need for an amp.

Reply 4) How does the media player software effect the sound? i would have thought they would all sound the same as they're using the same codecs?

Reply 5) If you're using either a laptop/pc with windows vista on it or an apple mac, the media software wíll not effect the sound.
When using win xp on the other hand, great improvements to the clarity of playback can be made by using either winamp or foobar plus plugin. This will bring it to the same level as Win vista or mac os.
For further reading I suggest this site: http://www.aqvox.de/Asio-USB-Audio-installation-e.htm

Reply 6) I think before we get onto the Kmixer and drivers we need to establish the basics: 1. If the MP3s are of your own CDs, re-rip them to a lossless format.
2. Ideally you need to get a digital output from the PC to a DAC.

Question 2) How does CDP output differ from DAC or a Transporter? The CDP output goes directly to the amp where as the sound files (consider any lossless mp3/wma format) goes from the hard drive to the sound card and then to the amp OR via Sound card> DAC> amplifier...where does the degradation take place?

Reply 7) How does CDP output differ from DAC or a Transporter? In essence they are the same..all analogue outputs that connect to your amp of choice.
Cd-player= disc-reader + Dac.
Separate Dac can receive any digital input, from your cd-player, dvd-player, from your pc or mac....
Transporter is a dac plus a wifi streamer- it connect to your pc/mac/nas drives (all harddisk based), streams the digital info to the transporter and translates it into analogue using it's Dac.

>>>>>The CDP output goes directly to the amp where as the sound files (consider any lossless mp3/wma format) goes from the hard drive to the sound card and then to the amp OR via Sound card> DAC> amplifier...where does the degradation take place? Primarily in the dac that's built in the soundcard, which plugs into the computers motherboard. An internal design needs to be well shielded from all the interference within a computer, caused by all the components that are essential for a pc but not for a media-player. (Hence the nas drives/apple tv) This is in fact such a challenge that's it's a far better option (read better price-performance) to choose and external soundcard/Dac, then buying an expensive (100 +) internal soundcard.
Question 3) Is there a way to process the files stored on the hard drive, outside the PC. Will an external USB soundcard process the mp3/wma files outside the PC thus eliminating the interference? Will this be an inexpensive alternative to an expensive sound card with digital output + an expensive DAC?

Reply 8) First I want to get your question clear. What I undersatnd from your questions is that you want a very cost effective way of getting hifi quality from your pc. Am I right?
If so, then an external dac is a must. Wouldn't worry to much about soundcard versus DAC options- just keep the signal within the computer digital, then you should be fine.
I'll give you a choice selection:

*Beresford dac 99 pounds; digital in, no usb; can return it when not satisfied; recommended by quite a few forum members

*Tascam us 144 about 100 pounds, usb great sound, although the software is sometimes a pain

*Edirol UA-25 Comes recommended by Ashley James, the manufacturer of Avi hifi, about 150 pounds

Mail me at ^^^^^^^ and I'll provide you with some pages for further reading/reviews (would be breaking forum rules if I posted them here). Remember however that a review is also just an opinion. Take it as a guideline, not an absolute truth- not only the quality of the product gets judged, it's always get mixed with that person's personal taste.

HERE IS HIS EMAIL>>>>>>>
Hi,
This website http://www.stereo.de/index.php?id=197 links to "stereo"mag website. (note there are 3 pages) See what you can use. It's in German, but not really tough to understand. They've basically been reconducting a Dac test with a normal office pc as a basis after many written request from readers.

Interestingly, they concluded that the difference between a cd-transport and a home pc isn't really that big. It the dac that is the main deciding factor in what sound you end up with. Furthermore the difference between the so called cheaper external usb dacs/soundcards and the much pricier Aqvox dac isn't that big a gap.

They also argue that usb is the best solution for a dac connected to a pc and that a quality usb cable can (marginally) improve on an already good setup. From my own experience and from what I've heard from a hifi manufacturer that's now focussing his attention on pc/mac based solution, I can tell you that most probably a toslink/optical cable connecting to an outboard dac would work just as well, and that a quality usb cable can be had for not much money at all. I use a well screened one with ferrite rings on either side, that I used to plug between the pc and the scanner! It's better than the one free provided with the soundcard, but cost peanuts.

I haven't been able to test many dacs myself, and as the tascam us-144 isn't flawless, it might be good to also consider the Edirol UA-25. Came recommended by Ashely James from Avi hifi. I'm sure he's in a much better position than me to judge the best from the rest! Any way, happy reading, and if there any question you want to ask about the tascam, feel free to mail me.
Oh, before i forget, it's best to rip your music files in a lossless codec. EAC is a free and very good ripper. www.eac.de (yes, also german based...i'm not german by the way ;-)
Best wishes,
...........
Ps: As an all in one solution also consider the Avi adm9- dacs and amps are already in the speakers.

Question in email>>>

what do you mean by "cd-transport". Is that the DAC inside the stand alone CD Player? Is the DAC inside a CD player better just because it is outside a PC environment hence there is no interference?

Do you use tascam us-144 only for your PC/Hi-Fi? I have heard that it is used by Musician and Guitarist too. I just want to concentrate on my PC and the amplifier connected to it. I don't want to buy a product which is primarily used by musician to connect various musical instrument and which also doubles as a DAC used for PCs.

Answer in email>>>>

To answer your question: cd-transport is a cd-player without a dac. The dac is in a separate box, because some designers believe this is beneficial to the end result.(Many, including myself, are not so sure about this, either way the effect is minimal, nothing to worry about)

To your question "Is the DAC inside a CD player better just because it is outside a PC environment hence there is no interference?", my answer is that the dacs might well be the same -there are only a few manufacturers in the world- the end result when using the same dac is also pretty much the same. The stereo article concluded that too. There is also interference inside a cd-player but much less so than in a computer, just because it's designed to do only one thing. The benefit that a cd-player has over a compueter setup is less interference (from other electric components); however the computer has the advantage over a cd-player when readind a cd is concerned. It can read very accurately using EAC and a suitable drive and can take its time to do so (less speed reading out the cd gives better end result). The end result is stored on a harddrive with bit to bit perfect info, which is much more high tech and much preferable to a fast spinning plastic disc/cd read out by a laser with real time (it's basically guessing!) error correction.The best of both worlds would thus be, a hard drive stored with carefully ripped albums in lossless format (wav, apple losslesss, flac), on a very simple pc connected to a very good dac.I must say here however that the interference I'm experiencing, with an external soundcard/dac connected to a home compaq pc, is merely theoretical, i.e.: I don't have moments in which I experience much noise, or strange sounds...It's merely the sound of the computer fan (not very loud, but detrimental to the end result when your listening is near the pc) that's bugging me.Best would be files ripped to a mac apple tv/Nas mini pc -with many harddrives- running on very minimal software, connected to a suitable dac. Which reminds me of a site a forgot to mention yesterday, sound on sound, www.soundonsound.com, a website for professional hifi use. Look for reviews of dacs on this website, like the tascam us144 and the Edirol UA25 and others from Edirol and Emu etc: http://www.soundonsound.com/sos/jul07/articles/tascamus144us122l.htm , http://www.soundonsound.com/search?section=%2F&Keyword=edirol for example.
"If we run lossless cd and then send it to an amp, is it then better than from a pc.?" No, the quality can be the same, provided you take care with the ripping process and use the same dac.Moreover, a pc/mac/appletv/nasdrive connected to a decent dac will sound miles better than any low or mid priced cd-player! Remember the dac is the main deciding factor. In many cd-players sound is compromised to cut costs. We don't have to do that if we concentrate our search on a good dac only, no unnecessary expensive drive unit, no box etc. After the Digital to Analogue Conversion (DAC) the now analogue signal is send to the amp, where it gets amplified for the speakers to output some music loud enough for us to hear.

"Do you use tascam us-144 only for your PC/Hi-Fi? I have heard that it is used by Musician and Guitarist too" That's right, it's basically a dac that works the other way around to- from analogue to digital (recording). I never use this feature. Basically the unit just has a good dac.
"I just want to concentrate on my PC and the amplifier connected to it."No problem, then the Beresford dac would be your best option. Just look if your pc soundcard has a digital out and connect it to the dac.

"I don't want to buy a product which is primarily used by musician to connect various musical instrument and which also doubles as a DAC used for PCs."That's fine, ther are other options available, like the beresford I mentioned. The external soundcard I choser because it came recommended by a hifi magazine and because is a cheap way to buy a good dac. Hifi dacs are often way overpriced. The professional (music making) business has more sense and demands products that are good but cost not much. The price is kept low by the high demand.The only sensibly priced dacs from hifi origens I can think of are the Beresford dac (100) then there is the stello dac (500) and and then it gets exotic and expensive musical fidelity X-dac V8, stello 220 etc. I think the beresford would be your best bet for first time purchase. It's comes with a warranty and you can send it back if you don't like it.His website, where you can directly order, is: http://www.homehifi.co.uk/main/main.html
Best wishes,
........

Question in email>>>
You talk about external sound card/dac. Do you have an external sound card which you then further connect to a DAC.Which external sound card do you use. While I searched for USB sound cards, I found one made by creative-http://reviews.cnet.com/external-audio-adapters/creative-sound-blaster-live/4505-9335_7-31156408.htmlBut I have read that audiophiles don't go for frills made by soundblaster but prefer dedicated music m-audi1wadhawso sound cards. If these devices are mostly similar, is the m audio costlier because they have a midi in and out port? Can you think of a no frill sound card which gives a stereo output/ digital output and sticks to basics. Which amplifier do you use? Have you reviewed other products as well?<<<>Let me check if I get this right: One should use an external USB sound card (with a digital output port) that feeds a digital output to a DAC. A regular PCI sound card with digital output to a dac would be fine too.I have a blog in which I post about the issues that I face so that the next time I don't have to research about it on the Internet. Can I copy paste our emails and post it there with your permission (I will change the name if you want)? Your thought about how HiFi dacs are overpriced as compared to Music Hi fi makes good sense.Thanks for all the advice.


Reply in email>>>

To answer your questions:

* I currently use an external midi device as a dac, the Us-144 from Tascam

*The creative you mention, i haven't heard myself. I'd stretch your budget a little more and go for the edirol UA-25, the tascam or Emu 0202 or 0404. Emu is the more music oriented brand that's owned by creative (!). If that's to much the beresford dac at 100 pounds is a save bet. The trouble with cheaper dac/soundard solutions is, it's almost impossible to listen to them before you buy. Best you can do is rely on others' experiences and buy with a money back guarantee if not satisfied.

* I use the musical fidelity X-can V3 headamp with Sennheisers HD650

* Q:"Let me check if I get this right: One should use an external USB sound card (with a digital output port) that feeds a digital output to a DAC. A regular PCI sound card with digital output to a dac would be fine too." A:An external soundcard contains a dac. You only have to plug it in & get it recognised to use it as such. A regular pci sound card like the m-audio M-Audio 2496 will be fine too as a low budget solution; it's an internal soundcard, but at the price it's hard to beat.

*In short, if you can't spend more than 50-60 pounds go for the m-audio 2496. Beresford dac I'd recommend If you're willing to spend 100-130 pounds; further upwards usb cards like the edirol Ua25, tascam us144 and Emu usb cards. (M-audio you could buy at dolphin music, beresford here: http://www.homehifi.co.uk/main/main.html Note that for the beresford you need to check if your computer has a digital spdif out.)

*Q:"I have a blog in which I post about the issues that I face so that the next time I don't have to research about it on the Internet. Can I copy paste our emails and post it there with your permission (I will change the name if you want)?"A: You may use what you've learned and post it by copy pasting, provided you remove my username. When you've removed my username you may post what you've learned. It's general knowledge, I don't need any credit for it. Please take care with what you post as I don't want to think people I know everything. It's just a general guideline and in the end it's you who decides what's best for you. For further reading you could recommend (if possible/allowed) the computeraudiophile.com, sound on sound.com, etc.

Good luck with your dac hunt,
best wishes,


The webmaster would like to thank the above person who shared this information with everyone.

Tuesday, April 15, 2008

Recover Lost Product Keys (CD-Key) for Windows 2000/XP/2003

I wanted to try prcedit (or other palm application) on Windows XP. Unfortunately these applications are so old, they don't work in the current environment. They need Windows 95(!) or atleast Windows 98. I installed Microsoft Virtual PC 2007 and tried installing my old 98 but could not locate the product key (how can anyone keep the paper cover with product key on it for years! Cant the software developers come up with a more ingenius way!!)


^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^



Had to search google



The following information is taken from









One of the biggest nags for an IT administrator facing the need to format and reinstall a Windows-based operating system is the need to recover that system's Product ID (or CD-Key). Normally you'd find the Product ID for the installed Windows OS either on the computer's sticker (found on the bottom of a laptop, or on the side or back panels of a desktop computer), or on the installation media itself (for older OSs).









ProduKey
ProduKey is a small utility written by Nir Sofer (who's wonderful freeware tools can be downloaded on his website at http://www.nirsoft.net/), that displays the Product ID and the CD-Key of Microsoft Windows 2000/XP and 2003 operating systems, Microsoft Office products, Microsoft Exchange and SQL Servers. The nice thing about this (freeware) tool is that you can view this information for your current running operating system, or for another operating system/computer on your network by using command-line options.






In order to start using it, just run the executable file - produkey.exe. The main window of ProduKey displays the list of Windows, Office, and SQL Server products installed on your system. For each product, the "Product ID" and "Product Key" are displayed. If you want the view the product key information in another computer, or in another operating system within the same computer, use the command-line options below.
Command-Line Options:
/remoteall
Enumerate all computers on your local network, and load the product key information from them. Be aware that this option is quite slow, and you may need to wait a few minutes until the product key information is displayed. In order to use this option, you must have Administrator privileges in all computers on your local network.
/remotealldomain [Domain Name]
Enumerate all computers in the specified domain, and load the product key information from them.
/remote [Computer Name]
Load product key information from the specified computer name. In order to use this option, you must log in to the remote computer with Administrator privileges.
/remotefile [Computer Names Filename]
Load product key information from all computer names specified in the file. The file can be tab-delimited, comma-delimited, or CRLF-delimited. In order to use this option, you must have Administrator privileges in all computers specified in the computer names file.
/windir [Windows Directory]
Load product key information from another operating system on the same computer. The [Windows Directory] specifies the base folder of Windows installation, for example: c:\windows, c:\winnt This feature is only supported on Windows 2000/XP.
/regfile [Software Registry File]
Load product key information from another operating system on the same computer. The [Software Registry File] specifies the software registry file usually located under c:\windows\system32\config This feature is only supported on Windows 2000/XP.
/nosavereg
Load ProduKey without saving your last settings (window location, columns size, and so on) to the Registry.
You can also combine the above command-line options with the following save options in order to save product key information to file:
/stext
Save the list of product keys into a regular text file.
/stab
Save the list of product keys into a tab-delimited text file.
/stabular
Save the list of product keys into a tabular text file.
/shtml
Save the list of product keys into HTML file.
/sverhtml
Save the list of product keys into vertical HTML file.
/sxml
Save the list of product keys into XML file.
Examples:produkey.exe /remote \\Server01 produkey.exe /remotefile "c:\temp\computers.txt" produkey.exe /regfile "F:\WINNT\system32\config\software" produkey.exe /windir "c:\winnt" /shtml "c:\temp\pk.html" produkey.exe /remoteall produkey.exe /remotealldomain MyDomain
Note: If you bought your computer with pre-installed operating system (as most OEM vendors do), you may find that the product key that was retrieved by the ProduKey utility is different from the product key on your Windows CD. This problem is mostly reported with Dell computers.
Magical Jelly Bean Keyfinder
The Magical Jelly Bean Keyfinder is a freeware utility that retrieves your Product used to install Windows on the current machine or on network computers. It retrieves it from the computer's registry. It has the options to copy the key to clipboard, save it to a text file, or print it for safekeeping. It works on Windows 95, 98, ME, NT4, 2000, XP, Server 2003, Windows Vista, Office 97, Office XP, and Office 2003. This version is a quick bug fix to remedy the broken "Change Windows Key" in Windows XP.

Links:
ProduKey - Recover lost product key (CD-Key) of Windows/MS-Office/SQL Server: http://www.nirsoft.net/utils/product_cd_key_viewer.html
Magical Jelly Bean Software - Magical Jelly Bean Keyfinder v1.5: http://www.magicaljellybean.com/keyfinder.shtml
Related Links
Quickly Retrieve Windows CD Key
Change the Serial in Windows XP
Change Office XP CD Key

Wednesday, March 05, 2008

ISO images on USB.

We ignore the floppy drive but when we are in dispar, that is the disk we miss the most!

To place any ISO image on your USB, you need to make sure that original structure is retained.

You can use any disk imaging software. Disk image is an exact copy of a physical disk (floppy, CD-ROM, hard disk, USB, VHD disk, etc.) or a partition that preserves the original structure.


============================

just decompress it using 7zip to a the device you wish to boot from and presto, just make sure the mobo supports booting from USB.

==================
exc said:
i want to make a flash drive that will boot the seatools (for DOS) program found on maxtor.com.

1) format the usb drive to FAT.
2) download and install seatools floppy creator to a virtual floppy drive.
3) extract the boot sector via mkbt to a .bin file.
4) copy the bootsector in .bin file via mkbt to the flash drive.
5) copy the files installed in step 2 to the thumb drive. the drive is now bootable after applying correct BIOS settings.

are these steps correct? if so i'm having trouble with mkbt copying the bootsector to the flash drive. i get a "file system ID is incorrect" error. keep in mind that both the virtual drive and the thumb drive were formatted to "FAT," and that my windows xp system is NTFS. how do i overcome this error? thanks!

January 7, 2008 7:11 PM

===================================

i don't have a floppy drive and nor do i want to waste a CD-R. so i'm trying to make a bootable flash drive containing seatools for DOS.

the technique i researched says to copy the bootsector and files from the bootable disc to the flash drive. is this right?:

1) install Virtual Floppy Drive 2.1 (http://chitchat.at.infoseek.co.jp/vmware/vfd.html) and use it to mount a blank 1.44MB image created via WinImage (http://www.winimage.com/download.htm). format the resulting virtual disk to "FAT" using windows explorer.
2) create the seatools bootable media onto the virtual disk.
3) extract the bootsector from the virtual disk to a .bin file via MKBT 2.0 (http://www.nu2.nu/mkbt/).
4) format the USB drive to "FAT" using windows explorer.
5) copy the bootsector to the flash drive using MKBT.
6) copy the files from the virtual drive to the flash drive.
7) change BIOS settings to boot off of the flash drive.

the problem i have is with step 5. MKBT gives me the "different filesystem ID error," where FileSys="FAT16." why am i getting this error when i formatted both the virtual drive and the flash drive to FAT? does this have to do with the fact that i'm running windows in an NTFS filesystem?

thank you all in advance!

Tuesday, March 04, 2008

Large Hard Drive support

These days you might want to remove the Dynamic Drive Overlay. This maybe becuase you have upgraded to a newer system that supports the full capacity of your hard disk or you have upgraded your current system's BIOS to support the full capacity of the hard disk.

Also, Operating system these days bypass the BIOS limitation, (examples Windows Vista, Windows XP with Service Pack 2, or Windows 2000 with Service Pack 4).

The simplest method of removing the DDO from a hard drive is to use SeaTools to DOS to completely zero-fill the drive. This will erase everything on the drive, including the master boot record and the dynamic drive overlay.

Since Seagate Seatools boots to its own operating system you can use it regardless of the OS installed on it!

When removing the Dynamic Drive Overlay, it is important that you only have the hard drive(s) with a DDO installed connected to the system. You might want to try setting the BIOS parameters (example: Primary Master, Primary Slave, Secondary Master, or Secondary Slave) to where the drive is connected from Auto-Detect to None or Not-Installed. Save the settings and exit. Power off the computer. This step will tell the BIOS that there is no device or drive attached to the port.

If you are not sure or dont want to take chances, you can remove the power cord of the other hard drive.

Sunday, March 02, 2008

USB Power: Theory vs. Reality

USB ports do not limit current.a USB port can never be counted on to limit its output current to 500 mA, or any amount near that. In fact, output current from a port often exceeds several amperes since multiport systems (such as PCs) frequently have only one protection device for all ports in the system.

USB ports rarely, if ever, turn off power. So no matter what dialog takes place between a USB peripheral and host, a 5 V supply (at either 500 mA or 100 mA, or even maybe 2 A or more) will be available.

More on this PDF file by Maxim Integrated Products holds a U.S. patent on all forms of USB Lithium-battery charging.

http://powerelectronics.com/ar/Maxim.pdf

http://powerelectronics.com/mag/power_charge_battery_faster/

Thursday, January 31, 2008

Memory slots on Intel DG33FB


Bought this motherboard for Rs 4500 from Lamington road (jan 2008).

How to convert Single channel to Dual channel memory.

The chipset on your motherboard should support Dual Channel Memory. You need to buy two memory modules. With two similar memory modules, you have to install each memory module on a different channel on your motherboard. The best way to avoid errors is to find sockets 1 and 3 and install the modules there. The motherboard guide may help two as there is no standar when it comes to the colors used for memory slots/channels.

How to calculate how fast your PC really is.

The advertised clock rate isn't the real external CPU clock. For example, Athlon XP 3200+ is said to have a 400 MHz external clock, but in fact its clock rate is 200 MHz transfering two data per clock, making it a processor with a performance similar if the CPU used an external 400 MHz clock but transfering just one data per clock.

Intel CPUs use a technique called QDR or Quad Data Rate, which transfers four data per clock cycle. With this technique the CPU achieves an external performance four times greater than if it was transfering just one data chunk. Because of that, the clock advertised by Intel is four times greater than the real clock used by the CPU. It is still a mystery whether the very high-end 1,066 MHz CPU uses a 400 MHz x 4 bus or a 200 MHz x 8 bus configuration. Maybe the latter, due to the physical difficulties involved in increasing the CPU external clock rate. So, a Pentium 4 processor with 533 MHz bus runs at 133 MHz but achieves a performance "as if" it was running at 533 MHz.


Double Data Rate (DDR). With this technique the CPU transfers two data per clock cycle, doubling the performance of the bus since usually just one data is tranfered per clock tick.

External Clock" is the clock speed advertised by the manufacturer, while "Real Clock" is the real clock signal speed used by the CPU.

Since it is hard do compare clocks when you don't know how much data is transferred per time, it is better to know the maximum transfer rate, given in megabytes per second. The formula to calculate it is rather simple:

Real clock x number of data transferred per clock x 64 divided by 8.

64 is used because the CPU communicates with the memory 64 bits per time, and we have to divide by eight to have the result in bytes.

Example- 400 X 2 X 64/8 = 6400 MB/s

Or else use CPU-Z software (downloaded as cpuz.exe on 31 jan 08)

Run it and check the external clock speed of your CPU on the "Bus Speed" field and check what is its maximum transfer rate.

How RAM speed slows down your PC

The system RAM memory prevents the PC of achieving its maximum capable performance. This happens because the processor (CPU) is faster than RAM memory and usually it has to wait for the RAM memory to deliver data. During this wait time the CPU is idle, doing nothing. Nowadays with processors running over 3 GHz, RAM memory is still stuck at 400 MHz (actually less than that as we will explain below).

Many years ago one idea was created to match CPU speed with memory speed, which is used until today. The processor has two speeds, one internal – which is the one labeled on the CPU, like 3 GHz, 3.2 GHz and so on – and one external, used to access the CPU's outside world, specially RAM.

But even with this technique the speeds don't match. Intel CPUs available today run externally at 400 MHz, 533 MHz, 800 MHz or even 1,066 MHz, while the RAM speed is still stuck at 800 MHz.

Dual Channel Memory can help improve the RAM speed, because this technique doubles it. In order to use Dual Channel Memory, your motherboard has to be capable of supporting this technique and you will also need two equal memory modules.

DDR Dual Channel




Note: With Dual Channel the memory speed doubles.

Memory Speeds


Wednesday, January 30, 2008

How to check the power supply (SMPS) of a computer.


To check the power supply without the motherboard- Short the green and any black wire. The fan should start rotating.

Technical explaination- Attach a fan on one of the 4 pin molex. On the 20 or 24 pin ATX power connector, short the pin that has the GREEN wire with any adjacent pin that has the BLACK wire. Attched fan and PSU fan should spin. You can test the +3.3V and +5V rails with a multimeter. Pins with the Orange wire carry +3.3V while RED carry +5V.

Power Supply Connectors

The board has the following power supply connectors: (4 pin connector)
1 Ground
2 Ground
3 +12 V
4 +12 V

Main Power
1 +3.3 V
2 +3.3 V
3 Ground
4 +5 V
5 Ground
6 +5 V
7 Ground
8 PWRGD (Power Good)
9 +5 V (Standby)
10 +12 V
11 +12 V (note)
12 2 x 12 connector detect
13 +3.3 V
14 -12 V
15 Ground
16 PS-ON# (power supply remote on/off)
17 Ground
18 Ground
19 Ground
20 No connect
21 +5 V
22 +5 V
23 +5 V (Note)
24 Ground (Note)

Note- i think these are not connected when using a 20 pin connector inside a 24 pin.

Note: When using a 2 x 10 power supply cable, this pin will be unconnected.